Adding an Inverted Pleat to a Top that's too Wide

Before and after pictures of a deep red top that is first shown too wide and then shown as more fitted.

Adding an Inverted Pleat to a Top that's too Wide

This top is too wide and flares out too far for my liking. I'm going to make this top less wide and a little more fitted by creating an inverted pleat down the center and partially taking in the sides.
 
 
Red top shown as being way too wide.

Way Too Wide

Here is another view of the top. It's way too wide for my liking so I better get to work on making it fit better.

 
Center marked on red top with instruction on labels.

Finding the Center of the Top

Find the center of your top. Do this by locating the center of both the top and bottom hem of your shirt. Measure from each side to find the center of the top, bottom and center sections of your shirt. Fold your shirt in half and then make a center crease from the top to the bottom by pressing it with an iron.
 
 
Red top shown with instructions to create an inverted pleat down center of top.

Creating an Inverted Pleat

My pleat starts with a total width of 1 and 1/2 inches. Measure and mark your total width out of your desired measurement for your inverted pleat. Take the sides of your pleat measurements and fold those sides to the center of your shirt's crease.
 
 
Red top with instructions on folding pleat edges to center.

Folding Pleat Edges to Center

 Take the outside edges of your pleat measurement and fold into the center of your crease and pin. Do this from the top to bottom of your shirt. Iron after pinning to create these two new creases in the center of your top. You have made your inverted pleat!


Red top turned inside out with view of the back of the inverted pleat.

Inverted Pleat View From Inside of Top

 Turn your top inside out and view the back of your newly created inverted pleat. Press with iron on this side too.
 
 
Picture of red top with buttons securing inverted pleat.

Secure Pleat with Buttons

I secured my inverted pleat with these three buttons starting at the very top and then down about one quarter of the top. I sewed the buttons by hand bringing the two edges of the pleat together, securing the pleat and button at the same time. I also sewed through to the back of the pleat to make it even more secure and stable.

 

Red top with wide sideseams showing and instructions of bringing them together.

Reducing Side Flare

To create less flare on the sides of this top simply bring together the two sideseams that create an upside down V and pin together on the inside of the shirt. Pin together from underarm hole to about 2/3 of the way down the side of the shirt.


Red top with sideseams pinned together.

Outside View of Sideseams Pinned Together


Inside view of sideseams pinned together with instruction labels.

Inside View of Sideseams Pinned Together

Here you can see the sideseams pinned together on the inside of the shirt. Sew sideseams together starting at the top of the seam to about 2/3 of the way down, leaving the bottom section unsewn.


Red top showing completed sideseams.

Sideseams Completed

The sideseams are now complete. These sideseams are another version of the inverted pleat which allows me to bring the extra flare in at the top while allowing the bottom portion to still flare out.


Red top refashioned and completed.

Completed Refashioned Top

Here is the completed refashioned Top. It's a little more form fitted with flare at the bottom. Now I'm able to wear this top without feeling it is way too big. It's also fun to finally finish this refashioned top. Completion is a fun part of the journey! Do you have any projects that an inverted pleat might be useful to enhance with? I would love to hear of your refashion projects and techniques that you love to use.

Enjoy, Linda

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